To travel through North Wales is to journey through a landscape where history is written in stone.
The jagged peaks of Eryri (Snowdonia) rise like natural fortifications against the sky, a rugged backdrop that for centuries protected the Princes of Gwynedd.
Yet, punctuating the coastline and guarding the river crossings are the great stone sentinels of King Edward I—the “Iron Ring.”
These are not merely ruins; they are the enduring scars of a conquest, architectural masterpieces designed to subdue a nation, and they now stand as some of the finest World Heritage sites on the planet.
For the modern explorer, the Iron Ring offers more than a history lesson. It presents a journey through some of the most dramatic scenery in the British Isles.
From the windswept dunes of Harlech to the imperial grandeur of Caernarfon, these fortresses demand to be explored.
I have spent years hiking these hills and walking these walls. Here is my ultimate guide to driving the Iron Ring, linking together my personal visits to these stone giants.
The Architect and The King
Before you start the engine, you need to know why these castles exist. Following the wars of 1277 and 1282, King Edward I needed to permanently suppress the Welsh rebels led by Llywelyn ap Gruffudd.
He didn’t just build forts; he commissioned a “containment system.”
He hired the greatest military architect of the age, Master James of St George, a genius from Savoy. Together, they built a chain of castles that could be supplied by sea, rendering them immune to Welsh sieges.
They are brutal, beautiful, and utterly dominant.
1. Flint Castle: The First Chain in the Link
The journey begins in the north-east, on the silty banks of the Dee Estuary. Often bypassed by tourists rushing west to Snowdonia, Flint Castle is historically the most significant of them all because it was the first.
Begun in 1277, immediately after Edward I’s first invasion, Flint was the experimental blueprint.
It sits just a day’s march from Chester, serving as the beachhead for the English army. Unlike the later concentric castles, Flint features a unique design that was never repeated in Britain: a detached Great Tower (Donjon) surrounded by its own moat. It feels raw, elemental, and exposed to the tides.
It is also the setting for a tragedy. In 1399, King Richard II was lured here and surrendered to his cousin Henry Bolingbroke, an event immortalised by Shakespeare. Standing in the ruins today, looking out over the mudflats to the Wirral, you can almost feel the ghosts of that surrender.
- Read the full story: Discover the isolated donjon and the legend of Richard’s greyhound in my guide to Flint Castle.
2. Rhuddlan Castle: The Engineering Marvel
Moving west, we head inland to the banks of the River Clwyd. Rhuddlan Castle is often the quietest of the ring, but for engineering geeks, it is the most impressive.
Edward I faced a problem here: the castle was miles inland, meaning the Welsh could cut off his supply lines. His solution? He moved the river. He conscripted hundreds of ditch-diggers to canalise the River Clwyd for over two miles, straightening it so his supply ships could dock right at the castle walls.
Rhuddlan was the first “concentric” castle (walls within walls), built on a unique diamond plan. It was also here, in 1284, that the Statute of Rhuddlan was signed, legally annexing Wales to England—a document that shaped the nation for centuries.
3. Conwy Castle: The Fairytale Fortress
Crossing the river into Conwy is one of the great arrivals in travel. The castle rises out of the rock, its eight massive towers silhouetted against the mountains, guarding the suspension bridge.
Conwy is unique because it isn’t just a castle; it’s a complete fortified town.
The medieval town walls are some of the best-preserved in Europe, stretching for 1.3km with 21 towers. You can walk almost the entire circuit for free, looking down into the castle’s courtyards.
Inside, the royal apartments are remarkably intact, giving you a real sense of the luxury Edward enjoyed while his soldiers kept watch on the cold battlements.
4. Beaumaris Castle: The Unfinished Masterpiece
Crossing the Menai Bridge onto the Isle of Anglesey, we reach the final and most technically ambitious of Edward’s castles: Beaumaris.
By 1295, the Welsh had revolted again. Edward needed to secure the fertile grain lands of Anglesey, so he returned to his master architect, James of St George, with a blank cheque (almost) and a flat marshland site.
The result is architectural perfection. Beaumaris is a “concentric” castle in its purest form—completely symmetrical.
It features a water-filled moat surrounding an outer wall, which in turn surrounds a much higher inner wall. Ironically, it was never finished.
Money ran out to fight wars in Scotland, leaving the great inner towers stunted. It remains a squat, beautiful, sleeping giant.
5. Caernarfon Castle: The Palace of Power
If Conwy is a fairytale, Caernarfon is a brute. Located at the southern end of the Menai Strait, this was designed to be the capital of North Wales, and it shows.
Edward I built this castle to intimidate. He modelled the hexagonal towers and coloured bands of stone on the walls of Constantinople, linking his rule to the Roman Empire.
It is a labyrinth of passages, towers, and museums (including the Royal Welch Fusiliers). It is also the birthplace of the first English Prince of Wales, a tradition that continues with investitures held here to this day.
6. Harlech Castle: The Sentinel on the Rock
Finally, we drive south to the edge of the dunes. Perched on a sheer crag of rock, Harlech Castle has perhaps the most spectacular setting of them all.
When it was built, the sea lapped at the foot of the cliffs (it has since retreated), allowing the castle to be supplied by ship during sieges via a fortified “Way from the Sea.”
Harlech is famous for its stubborn resistance—it was the headquarters of the Welsh rebel Owain Glyndŵr and later held out for seven years during the Wars of the Roses, inspiring the song Men of Harlech.
The views from the battlements, looking out over the Irish Sea and back towards the peaks of Snowdonia, are unmatched.
Planning Your Road Trip: The Logistics
Navigating the Iron Ring requires a bit of strategy. Here are my tips for making the most of the trip.
The Route: East to West
I recommend following the history. Start at Flint on the border, then take the A55 Expressway west to Rhuddlan, Conwy, and Beaumaris. Finally, drop south down the coast (A487) to Caernarfon and Harlech.
Saving Money: The Cadw Explorer Pass
Visiting these castles individually can get expensive (Caernarfon and Conwy are £12+ each). If you plan to visit more than two, buy the Cadw Explorer Pass. It gives you unlimited entry for 3 or 7 days and usually pays for itself by the third castle.
- Tip for English Heritage Members: Your membership gets you half-price entry to Cadw sites in your first year, and free entry if you have renewed for a second year. Bring your card!
Dog Friendly? The Winter Rule
If you are hiking with a dog, you need to know the rules, as they vary wildly.
- Always Dog Friendly: Flint (open access), Rhuddlan (ground floor), Beaumaris (ground floor), Harlech (ground floor).
- The Seasonal Exception: Conwy and Caernarfon generally do not allow dogs in the main castle during the high season (Spring/Summer). However, they often relax this rule for the winter months (typically Nov-Feb), allowing dogs on the ground floor. Always check the Cadw website before you travel.
Base Camp: Where to Stay?
- For Connectivity: Stay in Conwy. The Castle Hotel is historic, comfortable, and right in the town walls. It puts you in striking distance of Beaumaris and Rhuddlan via the A55.
- For Atmosphere: Stay in Caernarfon. The Black Bloy Inn is one of the oldest and most characterful pubs in Wales, located inside the town walls. It’s the perfect jumping-off point for the Llyn Peninsula and Harlech.
From the mudflats of Flint to the cliffs of Harlech, the Iron Ring is one of the world’s great historical journeys. Which one will be your favourite?
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