The Cross Keys Pub, Nottingham: A Review of History and Ale in the Lace Market
Introduction: Finding a Piece of the Past
Walking through Nottingham’s Lace Market, I felt like I was stepping into a canyon of red brick and industrial grandeur.
The streets, many still cobbled, are flanked by the towering warehouses that once powered a global empire of thread and intricate design.
It was here, turning onto the prominent corner of Byard Lane and Fletcher Gate, that I found The Cross Keys, a pub that feels less like a building placed upon the landscape and more like one that has grown organically from it.
What was even better was that my son was taking me here as a treat.
Its handsome Victorian facade, a confident statement of terracotta and brick, stood out as a welcoming beacon in this historic quarter.
This isn’t just another city pub; I knew that the moment we pushed open its doors. I was entering a living repository of Nottingham’s industrious past, a place where I could almost hear the echoes of hurried lace workers and boisterous market traders mingling with the cheerful buzz of 21st-century life.
The Cross Keys is a quintessential example of the “city pub at its best,” a lovingly restored gathering place where tradition and modern hospitality are woven together as intricately as the lace that gave this district its name.
I saw it as a physical crossroads, a point where the paths of business professionals, theatre-goers, history buffs, and locals seeking a good pint all intersect, reflecting its central role in the community’s fabric.
In this review, I want to take you on a journey into the heart of that story. We’ll delve into the pub’s storied past, from its origins as a 17th-century brewery to its rebirth as a Victorian masterpiece.
Then, I’ll pull up a chair in the present day, to tell you about its modern culinary offerings, its celebrated ales, and the atmosphere that I found to be at once historic and vibrantly alive.
Ultimately, I’ll give you my verdict on its place in Nottingham’s rightly famed pub scene and explain why I believe The Cross Keys is more than just a place for a pint—it is an essential Nottingham experience.
The Fabric of History: The Story I Uncovered
The story of The Cross Keys perfectly mirrors the Lace Market’s own dramatic narrative: a tale of pre-industrial craft, a confident Victorian boom, the threat of decline, and a proud modern-day regeneration.
As I learned more about the pub’s timeline, I felt I was tracing the history of the very ground on which I was standing.
The Name and Its Meaning
Before getting into its physical history, I was curious about the name. “The Cross Keys” is one of the most common pub names in England, a legacy of the country’s deep ecclesiastical history.
I discovered it’s a direct reference to the Christian martyr Saint Peter, who was entrusted by Jesus with the keys to the kingdom of heaven.
The symbol of two crossed keys, which you often see on pub signs, represents this sacred charge.
While there are many pubs sharing this name, some with their own rich histories in places like Upton or Arnold, my focus was solely on this iconic establishment at 15 Byard Lane, in the historic heart of Nottingham.
Earliest Origins: Tunnels and Thievery
Long before the grand Victorian structure I was admiring was erected, a tavern had existed on this very site for at least 200 years.
Even earlier, the location was home to a brewery dating back to the 1700s. This period of the pub’s history gave me one of its most colourful and memorable tales.
In Victorian times, the brewery would sell its ale to the public from outside. The proprietors were mystified, however, as their stock kept disappearing at an alarming rate.
An investigation eventually revealed a plot of remarkable ingenuity and audacity: a local gang of navvies—the manual labourers who built much of Britain’s infrastructure—had used their formidable tunnelling skills to dig their way into the brewery’s cellars from below, helping themselves to the goods.
It’s a wonderfully roguish piece of folklore that speaks to the city’s hidden, subterranean character and the scoundrels who once walked its streets.
A Victorian Masterpiece: Architecture and Design
The building that stands today is a product of the lace industry’s absolute zenith. The current structure was built around 1890 and formally designed in 1899 by a significant local architect, Robert Evans.
I learned that Evans was a key figure in defining the city’s visual identity, known for “shaping much of the city’s Victorian character”. The Cross Keys is an example to his skill and the confident aesthetic of the era.
Its architectural significance is formally recognised; the building is Grade II listed by Historic England.
The official listing describes a public house of red brick with ashlar and terracotta dressings, standing on a corner site with a distinctive angled corner bay.
I could see the moulded round-arched doorways and pilasters with ornate foliage capitals on the ground floor. Inside, original features like dentillated cornices and a round column in the front bar hint at its original layout and craftsmanship.
This architectural pedigree elevates the pub from a simple hostelry to a significant piece of Nottingham’s heritage, a tangible link to the period of prosperity that built the entire district.
The Social Hub of the Lace Empire
Originally part of the Home Brewery estate, The Cross Keys was purpose-built to serve the thriving community around it.
Its location made it the natural watering hole for the thousands of lace workers, market traders, and merchants who defined the district’s character.
I could just imagine deals being struck, gossip being exchanged, and weary workers finding respite from the clatter of the machinery in the warehouses right here.
The pub’s history isn’t just one of bricks and mortar, but of the people who ran it and gave it its soul. Landlords like Arthur Gibbons in the 1930s, and later the Warman family, were instrumental in cementing its reputation as a “friendly, well-kept house,” a reputation for warmth and hospitality that I found continues to this day.
Modern Era: Restoration and New Ownership
Just as the Lace Market itself fell into a period of decline in the mid-20th century as the industry waned, its buildings faced an uncertain future.
The Cross Keys, however, has been the beneficiary of the area’s subsequent renaissance.
In recent years, it underwent a loving and conscious restoration that carefully preserved its priceless original features—the sweeping high ceilings, the grand facade, the traditional tiled bar—while sensitively integrating modern comforts to meet the expectations of today’s patrons.
This process of regeneration is also reflected in its ownership. For a decade from 2011, the pub was managed by the Nottingham-based Great Northern Group, who were responsible for reopening the historically important venue.
Then, in early 2022, The Cross Keys was acquired by the RedCat Pub Company, a fast-growing national firm.
This transition mirrors the final stage of the Lace Market’s revitalisation, where cherished local assets are integrated into larger commercial portfolios, ensuring their preservation and continued operation for a new generation.
The Atmosphere: A Warm Welcome Where Tradition Meets Today
For me, the true measure of a great pub lies in its atmosphere, and The Cross Keys masterfully balances its role as a heritage site with the vibrant, welcoming energy of a proper local.
I felt it has avoided the fate of becoming a sterile, tourist-focused theme pub by actively cultivating a community, ensuring its historic shell contains a thoroughly contemporary soul.
First Impressions
Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the sense of space and light, a legacy of its Victorian design.
The high ceilings and large windows, which flood the split-level interior with natural light, create an airy, open feel that is a pleasant contrast to the often dark and poky interiors of older pubs.
The decor speaks to a deep respect for the building’s history, with traditional wood-clad interiors, classic wooden floorboards, and a magnificent tiled bar that serves as the room’s focal point.
The overall effect I got was one of relaxed, unpretentious charm.
The Vibe
I found the atmosphere to be consistently “warm,” “welcoming,” and “friendly,” with a comfortable buzz that suggests it is well-loved by a loyal local clientele.
It’s a versatile space that adapts throughout the day. My midweek lunchtime visit was quieter, making it a “decent option for a quick midweek lunch” or a catch-up with friends. Or my meal with my son.
I can imagine that evenings and weekends see the energy rise, becoming a popular spot for after-work drinks or a starting point for a night out, yet it never feels uncomfortably crowded.
The pub’s broad appeal was evident in its diverse crowd, which ranged from city professionals and shoppers to theatre-goers from the nearby Lace Market Theatre.
A Living Local
What truly sets The Cross Keys apart, in my opinion, is its commitment to being a living, breathing part of the modern Nottingham community.
This is not a museum piece to be admired from afar; it is a hub of activity.
The schedule is packed with events designed to bring people together and foster a sense of belonging. Live music is a cornerstone of the experience, with performances every Friday at 8 pm and Saturday at 9 pm, filling the historic space with sound.
For aspiring performers, there is a popular Open Mic Night held on the second and last Thursday of every month.
This commitment to contemporary community life extends to its amenities and policies. For sports fans, the pub shows live games on Sky and TNT Sports, making it a popular local to watch a match.
The outside seating area, with its street-side tables, offers a prime spot for people-watching in the heart of the Lace Market.
Perhaps most tellingly, the pub has a genuinely enthusiastic pet-friendly policy. This is not a case of dogs being merely tolerated; they are actively adored.
The promise of “tasty treats on arrival,” readily available water bowls, and a warm welcome for four-legged friends demonstrates a people-centric approach that grounds the pub in the daily life of its neighbourhood, making it feel like a true home from home.
A Taste of Tradition: My Dining Experience
The Cross Keys has built a formidable reputation not just for its history and ales, but for its food.
I found the culinary strategy to be a carefully calibrated one, designed to offer comforting, high-quality classics that appeal to a broad audience, while using targeted promotions and a stellar drinks selection to secure distinct customer segments and manage perceptions of value.
The Culinary Philosophy
The pub’s ethos is proudly declared as “Proper Good Pub Food,” built on a foundation of “bold flavours and honest cooking”.
The chefs focus on executing pub classics to a high standard, letting quality ingredients shine.
There is a clear emphasis on seasonality and, where possible, sourcing from talented local producers. I saw this in the menu’s inclusion of items from revered local suppliers like Owen Taylor’s butchers and the Cropwell Bishop Creamery, grounding the food in the terroir of Nottinghamshire.
The menu spans a range of classic British pub fare, including brunch, steaks, and roasts, but with a modern, gastro-pub edge that elevates it beyond the ordinary.
The Menu in Detail
The main menu is a celebration of comforting, hearty dishes. The Mains section features staples like a classic Fish & Chips with beer-battered North Sea haddock and triple-cooked chips, a rich Steak, Ale & Horseradish Pie, and Old English Butcher’s Sausages & Mashed Potato.
I went for the sausages and mash and it was delicious.
The burger selection showcases a more playful, modern approach, with inventive creations like the “Gobby Cow” (double smashed beef patties, pulled pork, and crispy bacon) and the “Friar Cluck” (smashed beef patty with crispy Korean chicken).
For those looking for lighter bites or social dining, the menu offers a generous selection of Small Plates and Sharers. Options like Halloumi Fries, Lamb Koftas, and Crispy Pork Belly Bites can be mixed and matched (any 3 for £18.00 or 5 for £26.00).
The larger sharing boards looked particularly impressive, with a Mezze Board and a classic Ploughman’s featuring honey roast ham, mature Cheddar, and a wedge of that famous Cropwell Bishop Stilton alongside an Owen Taylor’s pork pie.
The pub also runs popular weekly specials, including a dedicated ‘Pie Night’ and ‘Steak Night’ for those seeking a classic treat.
In fact my son went for a steak with skin on fries.
The Sunday Roast
A separate Sunday Menu underscores the pub’s commitment to that most hallowed of British culinary traditions: the Sunday roast.
Described as a “Sunday Tradition” reimagined with a “playful nod,” the offerings are extensive.
Diners can choose from perfectly roasted meats like Rare Sirloin of Beef and Belly of Pork, or opt for a magnificent Trio of Meats.
Each roast is served with all the essential trimmings: crispy roast potatoes, seasonal greens, roasted carrots, mashed swede, apricot and pork stuffing, and a proud, puffy Yorkshire pudding, all bathed in a rich, glossy gravy.
Vegetarians and vegans are also well catered for with a Beetroot, Squash & Pine Nut Wellington.
For the Beer Connoisseur
Where I found The Cross Keys to be beyond reproach is in its selection of drinks, particularly its real ales.
The pub has a stellar reputation among beer lovers and is recognised by CAMRA (the Campaign for Real Ale).
The bar boasts an impressive seven hand-pulled real ales, alongside a rotating selection of craft beers and local ciders.
The pub has strong ties with the local Navigation Brewery, whose ales are often featured on the taps.
This commitment to quality beer makes it a destination pub for ale aficionados from across the city and beyond.
Offers and Value
The pub’s management appears keenly aware of the value proposition, proactively offering a suite of deals to attract customers during different times of the week.
A Happy Hour runs from Monday to Thursday, 4 pm to 7 pm, offering £1 off select drinks.
There are also dedicated offers like a Student Discount and a Workers Lunch, designed to drive midweek traffic and build loyalty with key local demographics.
This smart promotional strategy ensures the pub remains accessible and “Happily Affordable”.
Local Legends and Interesting Facts I Dug Up
Beyond the food and drink, the history of The Cross Keys is peppered with fascinating details and stories that add layers of character to any visit.
The Tunnelling Navvies and the Stolen Ale
One of the most enduring tales I came across from the site’s past is the story of the Victorian-era ale theft.
The image of a gang of cunning labourers using their professional tunnelling skills to burrow into the brewery’s cellars is a piece of local folklore that is too good not to retell.
It speaks to a rough-and-ready period of Nottingham’s history and adds a dash of outlaw spirit to the pub’s otherwise respectable Victorian heritage.
Robert Evans: The Architect Who Shaped Victorian Nottingham
The man who designed the building we see today, Robert Evans, was more than just a jobbing architect.
He was a pivotal figure in creating the architectural landscape of late-Victorian Nottingham.
Visiting The Cross Keys, I felt, is therefore an opportunity to appreciate the work of a local master, whose legacy is written in the brick and terracotta of many of the city’s most characterful buildings.
The Keys to Heaven: Unpacking the Pub’s Saintly Name
As I mentioned, the name “The Cross Keys” is a direct reference to Saint Peter and his role as the gatekeeper of heaven.
Knowing this small piece of ecclesiastical history enriches the experience of visiting any pub with this name. It connects a seemingly mundane pint to centuries of Christian symbolism and English history, reminding us that the stories behind these names are often as old as the settlements they serve.
A Note on Spirits: Nottingham’s Un-Haunted Gem?
Old pubs are often magnets for ghost stories, and many establishments named “The Cross Keys” across the country trade on tales of hauntings and paranormal activity.
It is therefore a notable and interesting fact that, despite its considerable age and history, I could find no such stories or legends attached to The Cross Keys on Byard Lane.
A thorough search revealed no mention of resident ghosts, mysterious occurrences, or spectral patrons. In a city rich with haunted tales, this pub stands out as a place where the only spirits are those found behind the bar.
This lack of supernatural lore, far from being a disappointment, reinforces its identity as a place grounded in the tangible, human history of industry, community, and good cheer.
Conclusion: My Final Verdict
After journeying through its rich history, soaking in its welcoming atmosphere, and sampling its traditional fare, a clear and definitive verdict emerges for me.
The Cross Keys is far more than just a pub; it is an essential thread in the historic fabric of the Lace Market and a standout destination in Nottingham’s vibrant social scene.
The experience it offers is a compelling blend of the past and the present. Its architectural and historical charm is immense, offering a tangible connection to the Victorian era that defined the city. This sense of history is not, however, presented as a sterile museum piece.
It is the backdrop for a warm, authentic, and lively pub that buzzes with a contemporary energy, fueled by live music and a genuine sense of community.
The food is hearty and well-executed, offering comforting British classics that are elevated by the use of quality local ingredients. I adored my sausage and mash!
While the value proposition of the full-price menu may be a point of consideration, the excellent lunchtime deals and special offers provide ample opportunity for an affordable and satisfying meal.
For lovers of real ale, like myself, the pub is, without question, one of the city’s premier destinations.
I would highly recommend The Cross Keys for a wide range of visitors.
History buffs and architecture lovers will be captivated by its story and design. Real ale aficionados will be in their element with the extensive and well-kept selection.
And anyone, whether a local or a visitor, who is simply seeking an authentic slice of Nottingham life in a beautiful, welcoming setting will find it here. It is a pub that has successfully honoured its past while remaining vibrantly and relevantly alive in the present.
It is, in short, a triumph.
Another tip for refreshments in the area is the unique Pitcher & Piano.
If you are in the area then there is lots more to discover. Take a trip to the free Nottingham Contemporary, or go underground to the City of Caves.
Source link
