Villa Epicurea, Portugal: Where Happiness Is Peace, Not Pleasure
Tucked away on the edge of a nature reserve, just a short drive from the fishing town of Sesimbra, sits Villa Epicurea, a hidden eco-retreat that feels a million miles from the buzz of Lisbon, yet is just 45 minutes away.
We stayed in the Garden Bungalow, perched up on the hill above the main house and natural swimming pool. With its shaded balcony and sweeping views down to the Atlantic coast — and Lisbon faintly visible on the horizon — it was the perfect spot to unwind, breathe deeply, and watch the sunset.
Cosy, Compact, but Just Right
The bungalow was cosy, but perfectly adequate for four. Becky and I had the bedroom, while our daughters (Amelie, 19, and her younger sister Orlaigh nearly 17) took the sofa beds in the open-plan kitchen-diner-lounge.
It also had an air con unit which came in handy. Thanks to the balcony, we never felt on top of each other — there was enough space to spread out and enjoy the peace.
Breakfast with a View
Breakfast was included and delicious — a generous spread of fruit, yoghurt, cheese, and bread, with scrambled eggs available on request. It was served in the main house, just a short walk downhill through the trees.
Evening meals, though, need to be pre-booked. You can opt for oven-ready meals to cook in your bungalow or order a picnic.
We went for the picnic on our first night — around €15 per person — which included a homemade salad of carrot, mushroom, and courgette, with boiled eggs, cheese, bread, and the creamiest homemade hummus.
We’d also stopped at a supermarket on the drive from Lisbon, and topped up with some cold meats and a surprisingly good octopus and shrimp salad (just €5). A little planning made all the difference.
Dolphin Watching with a Marine Biologist
The next morning, Becky and Amelie headed off to nearby Sesimbra for a dolphin-watching boat trip with Daydream Experience, hosted by Catarina — a marine biologist with a wealth of knowledge and a passion for the local marine life.
Did you know dolphins are pregnant for nine months, like humans? Or that they only have calves every three years? Neither did we. It wasn’t just a sightseeing trip — it was genuinely educational and unforgettable.
Sundowners at Praia do Moinho de Baixo (a.k.a. Praia do Meco)
On our final evening, we took the short 11-minute drive to Praia do Moinho de Baixo, more commonly known as Praia do Meco. The beach is vast and unspoilt, the sand soft and golden, and the sunset view nothing short of spectacular.
We found a spot at the beach bar and restaurant — open until 10pm, with wooden loungers, umbrellas, and mojitos on tap. As the sun dipped low and the sky turned pink, we sat back in the sand with a drink in hand, soaking in the peace. The perfect way to end the day.
Low-Key Vibes, Maximum Chill
Even with all the bungalows occupied, Villa Epicurea never felt busy. Apart from breakfast or the odd shared moment at the eco pool, we barely saw the other guests. Even the check-in process is minimalist — when two young German travellers arrived at 6pm, no one was there to greet them. But one phone call later and they were sorted.
It’s that kind of place. Calm. Self-contained. No fuss.
But let’s be honest — it’s not for everyone. The rustic drive down steep dirt tracks to Sesimbra might unsettle some drivers. The bathroom is small, and the toilet politely insists you don’t flush paper.
But that’s all part of the charm.
After all, as the hand-painted words in the main house remind you:
“Happiness is peace, not pleasure.”
And we left extremely happy.
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