Ashby de la Zouch: The Definitive Guide to History, Food & Walks
There are names that simply describe a place, and then there are names that tell a story. Ashby de la Zouch falls firmly into the latter category.
Its lyrical, almost whimsical name conjures images of medieval romance, chivalrous knights, and a past steeped in legend. It is a name that has inspired songs and piqued the curiosity of travellers for centuries.
We look deeper into this particular town name in A Journey Through the Hidden Histories of English Place Names
But look past the storybook name, and you find a town that is vibrant, complex, and reinventing itself. Ashby is a place where a ruined castle whispers of betrayal, where a 19th-century spa boom left a legacy of elegance, and where a modern culinary scene is thriving in ancient coaching inns and converted banks.
It is also the beating heart of the National Forest, a town as committed to its green future as it is proud of its stone-built past.
Whether you are here for the history, the hiking, or the hash browns, here is your definitive guide to Ashby de la Zouch.
The Castle: A Monument to Ambition
You cannot visit Ashby without feeling the presence of the castle. It dominates the town not just physically, but spiritually. This isn’t a dusty relic; it is a crime scene of political ambition.
Built by William, Lord Hastings, the best friend of King Edward IV, it was designed to be a “castle within a castle”—a luxurious palace protected by formidable fortifications.
But Hastings’ dream died with him when he was brutally executed by Richard III in 1483. Later, the castle was “slighted” (deliberately destroyed) during the Civil War, leaving behind the jagged, romantic silhouette we see today.
For the visitor, the experience is visceral. You can climb the 98 steps of the shattered Hastings Tower for views that stretch across counties, or descend into the dark, atmospheric underground passage used during the siege.
St Helen’s Church: The Spiritual Twin
A stone’s throw from the castle stands St Helen’s Church, and the two are inextricably linked. Lord Hastings built this church at the same time as his fortress, a demonstration that his power extended to the heavens as well as the earth.
It is a treasure trove of history, housing the spectacular alabaster tombs of the Earls of Huntingdon and the final resting place of Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, one of the most powerful women of the 18th century.
It even contains a rare “finger pillory”—a curious device once used to punish those who misbehaved during sermons.
The “Ivanhoe” Effect: When Fiction Shaped Reality
Ashby de la Zouch has a unique claim to fame: it is perhaps the only town in England whose modern identity was shaped by a novel.
In 1819, Sir Walter Scott published Ivanhoe, setting a pivotal tournament scene at Ashby’s castle. The book was a global sensation.
Tourists flocked to see the setting of the story, and the town capitalised on the fame. They discovered a saline spring nearby, built the grand “Ivanhoe Baths,” and reinvented Ashby as a fashionable spa town for the Regency elite.
While the baths are gone, the elegance remains in the wide streets and classical architecture of the Royal Hotel and Rawden Terrace.
Where to Eat and Drink
Ashby’s culinary scene is a tale of two halves: the ancient coaching inns that have served travellers for centuries, and a new wave of independent cafes and restaurants.
Historic Pubs & Quirky Tales
You can’t leave Ashby without a pint in one of its legendary pubs. The history here is as rich as the ale.
- The White Hart: A 17th-century coaching inn on Market Street with a wild local legend. It is known as “the pub with the bear in the cellar.” Stories say a former landlord kept a live bear downstairs to deal with rowdy customers at closing time!
- The Lamb: While the current building is Victorian, the site has a deep history. The original inn here was a known stronghold for Royalist soldiers during the Civil War, while the Parliamentarians drank at The Bull’s Head across the street.
- The Tap @ No. 76: For a true sense of age, visit this micro-pub housed in a Tudor-era building that dates back to the reign of Elizabeth I. It’s now an award-winning spot for craft ales.
Tried & Tested Reviews
For a more modern bite, we’ve tried and tested the best independents in town.
Centivo Lounge: Dining in the Vault If you’ve ever wanted to eat brunch inside a bank vault, this is your chance. Centivo Lounge has taken over the old HSBC bank on Market Street, transforming the sober banking hall into an eccentric, Art Deco-inspired haven. It’s dog-friendly, vibrant, and features the original massive steel vault door as a dining alcove.
Lil Bo’s Deli: The Hidden Gem Tucked away in the historic Mill Lane Mews, Lil Bo’s is a family-run deli and kitchen that exudes heart and soul. Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century building (a former candlemaker’s), it serves what might be the best breakfast in town—including their signature “Hash” with haggis and black pudding.
The Courtyard Cafe: A Timeless Classic For those seeking a moment of calm, the Courtyard Cafe offers a retreat from the bustle. Tucked away from the main street, it provides a traditional tea room experience with a charming atmosphere that feels like stepping back into a gentler time.
Gateway to the National Forest
Ashby is not just about the past; it is the headquarters of the National Forest, one of the UK’s boldest environmental projects. The town is surrounded by 200 square miles of regenerating woodland, making it the perfect basecamp for walkers and cyclists.
- Hicks Lodge: Just outside town, this former coal mine is now a premier cycling centre with traffic-free trails perfect for families.
- The National Forest Way: Stage 5 of this long-distance trail starts in Ashby, taking walkers on a 7.5-mile journey through rolling fields and young woodlands to the village of Ticknall.
Beyond the Town Limits: Nearby Adventures
Ashby serves as an ideal base for exploring some of the region’s premier attractions.
CONKERS: This 120-acre visitor attraction, located at the heart of the National Forest, offers a full day of indoor and outdoor adventure for all ages. It features discovery centres, play areas, and an outdoor amphitheatre that hosts live music and events.
Calke Abbey: A short drive from Ashby, this National Trust property is famously known as the “un-stately home.” It was preserved in a state of decline, telling a poignant story of a country house estate’s final years. The surrounding parkland is a designated National Nature Reserve, featuring ancient, thousand-year-old oak trees and a historic deer park.
Staunton Harold: This nearby estate offers a picturesque landscape with a beautiful church, a large reservoir popular for walking, and the Ferrers Centre for Arts & Crafts, a hub for local artisans.
Practical Information for Your Visit
- Getting Here: Ashby is easily accessible via the A42. The nearest train stations are Burton-on-Trent and Leicester, with bus connections available.
- Parking: The town is well-served by car parks. The main council car parks are on North Street and South Street (charges apply).
- When to Visit: The town comes alive during its events. Look out for the Ashby Arts Festival in May, the Food and Drink Festival on the Bath Grounds (May/June), and the historic Ashby Statutes funfair in September, a tradition that has rolled into town every year for over 800 years.
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