Cresswell Pele Tower: History, Ghosts, and Scones on Druridge Bay
If you’ve ever walked the endless golden sands of Druridge Bay, you know the feeling of the North Sea wind on your face and the sense of vast, open space.
But on the southern edge of this sweeping bay, standing guard over the village of Cresswell, is a silhouette that stops you in your tracks.
It’s not a sprawling castle like Alnwick or Bamburgh. It’s something more intimate, yet equally formidable. This is Cresswell Pele Tower—a brooding, rectangular block of sandstone that has survived border wars, neglect, and the ravages of time to tell its story.
I was struck not just by the history, but by the heart of the place. Plus, it’s a free-to-visit piece of history run entirely by a dedicated army of volunteers.
Whether you’re a history buff, a birdwatcher, or just someone in search of the perfect seaside scone, here is why Cresswell needs to be on your Northumberland itinerary.
A Survivor of the “Debateable Lands”
To understand this tower, you have to step back into a time when Northumberland was a terrifying place to live. Between the 14th and 17th centuries, this wasn’t just “the north”—it was the frontier.
The Border Reivers ruled these lands, and families like the Cresswells lived in constant fear of armed raids.
The tower, built between 1350 and 1600, wasn’t a luxury home; it was a survival capsule. As you stand before its walls, notice the lack of ground-floor windows.
That wasn’t an aesthetic choice; it was to stop people from climbing in to slit your throat.
Stepping Inside
When the volunteers are on site and the doors open, the first thing you’ll encounter is the barrel-vaulted basement.
It’s cool, dark, and incredibly atmospheric. Historically, this stone arch had a grim purpose: it was fireproofing. If raiders set fire to the ground floor to smoke the family out, the stone vault protected the living quarters above.
Make your way up the narrow spiral staircase—a “turnpike” designed to trip up right-handed swordsmen—and you reach the living levels.
It’s amazing to think that for centuries, a whole family lived, cooked, and slept in these stacked stone rooms.
The Ghost of the White Lady
No self-respecting Northumbrian tower is complete without a ghost, and Cresswell has a tragic one.
Legend tells of the “White Lady,” a daughter of the Cresswell family who fell in love with a Danish Prince she watched being pulled from a shipwreck in the bay.
The story goes that her brothers, fuelled by xenophobia or greed, murdered the prince.
Heartbroken, the girl is said to have died of grief (or in some dramatic retellings, flung herself from the roof).
Locals say she still haunts the tower, gazing out to sea, waiting for a return that will never happen.
Tip: If you visit around Halloween, the volunteers often host storytelling nights that bring this spooky legend to life!
A Community Triumph: The Restoration
Ten years ago, this tower was a roofless ruin, filled with weeds and pigeon nests. It was on the “Heritage at Risk” register and looked destined to crumble.
What you see today is a miracle of community spirit. Local residents refused to let it die. Raising nearly £700,000 from the National Lottery Heritage Fund and other donors, they spent years meticulously restoring the stonework, reinstalling the roof, and fitting electricity.
It’s a powerful reminder that heritage isn’t just about old stones; it’s about the people who care for them today.
The Secret Walled Garden
Just across the path from the tower is a hidden gem that’s still finding its bloom. The Walled Garden was once the kitchen garden for the grand (and now demolished) Cresswell Hall.
Like the tower, it was abandoned for decades, disappearing under brambles. But since 2021, volunteers have been hacking back the undergrowth to reveal the original walls. It’s now a peaceful community space featuring:
- A Heritage Orchard: Replanted with traditional fruit trees.
- The Apiary: Yes, they have their own bees!
- Vegetable Plots: Showing how the estate would have fed itself.
Nature Notes: Druridge Bay and Cresswell Pond
You can’t visit Cresswell without taking in the landscape.
- The Beach: Druridge Bay offers miles of golden sand. It’s dog-friendly year-round and perfect for blowing away the cobwebs.
- Cresswell Pond: Just a short walk north of the tower, this lagoon is a birdwatcher’s paradise. It’s a brackish mix of salt and fresh water caused by mining subsidence. Look out for Avocets (which breed here), Pink-footed Geese in the winter, and even the occasional Barn Owl hunting at dusk.
Finding the Fortress: Location & Getting There
Cresswell village is tucked away on the southern edge of Druridge Bay. Here is how to find it:
- Sat Nav: Use the postcode NE61 5JU.
- By Car: The village is easily reached from the A1068 “Coastal Route.”
- Parking: The official tower website notes that free parking is available about 200m from the site. There is also a large public car park at the beach (Golden Sands), though be sure to check signage for any seasonal charges. Please note: There is strictly no parking on the village green or directly outside the tower gates.
- By Bus: You can reach the tower via public transport. The Arriva Service 1 (Blyth to Amble/Widdrington) stops directly in Cresswell village. Alternatively, the X18 and X20 services stop at nearby Ellington, which is approximately a 20-minute walk away.
- What3Words: If you use the app, the tower entrance is located at ///evening.defends.ecologist.
A Post-Hike Feast (Very Important!)
In true BaldHiker fashion, no walk is complete without a reward. Cresswell has two legendary spots:
1. The Drift Cafe Located right opposite the beach car park, this is the hub of the village. It has a relaxed, “beach shack” vibe and is incredibly dog-friendly.
- The Food: They are famous for their scones—huge, fluffy, and often served warm. Their homemade soups (often a hearty broth or Cullen Skink) are the perfect warmer after a winter beach walk.
- The Vibe: Check out the second-hand bookshop inside while you wait for your coffee.
2. Cresswell Ices A family-run institution that has been serving ice cream for nearly a century. Even in winter, you’ll see locals queuing for a “99“. It’s a nostalgic must-do.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
- Opening Times: The tower and garden are run entirely by volunteers. They are generally open on weekends and Bank Holidays (usually 13:00 – 16:00), but this depends on staff availability. Often closed december and january. Always check their Facebook page or website before travelling to avoid disappointment.
- Cost: Free! (Donations are very gratefully received to help keep the lights on).
- Accessibility: The garden and ground floor of the tower are accessible, but the upper floors are reached via a tight spiral staircase that isn’t suitable for those with mobility issues.
- Dogs: Welcome on the beach and in the cafe, but generally restricted in the tower interior due to space.
Have you visited Cresswell Pele Tower? Let us know your stories of the White Lady or your favourite ice cream flavour in the comments!
You may also like:
Source link
