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A Devon Escape To Teignmouth At Sea Breeze

Amjad Ali Send an email August 14, 2024

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Don’t know about you, dear reader, but I do love a holiday that does exactly what it says on the tin. Happened to me recently when I went down to Teignmouth (pronounced, “tin-muth), recently. Expect you know it. An unassuming little seaside town snuggled down on the Devon coastline. To my mind, it is an essential part of the infamous English Riviera.

Which is exactly why I went there. Was in the mood for a spot of riviera indulgence, without going abroad. Wanted to get myself a dose of sun, sea, sand and happiness. With maybe a couple of cream tea sundowners thrown in to keep things sweet. Have to say, it really did deliver.

Getting There

Is easy. From the north, you head to the bottom of the M5, turn right near Exeter, then follow the coastline for a few miles. Simples. From the south, you just head up to Exeter and stop short a few clicks before you get there. Either way, you’ve going to see some lovely countryside along the way and at some point, you’re going to get to the top of a hill and see the sea shining ahead in the distance. Which is always an extra added thrill at any time. Or maybe that’s just me.

The Apartment

Is situated within a scones throw of the sea. In one of those magnificent, Victorian, terraced mansions you find in some sweet seaside towns. There is a dedicated parking space outside, which is a priceless thing in the age of parking apps, traffic wardens and unreliable ticket machines.

After letting ourselves in, we headed up a flight of stairs to see what awaited us over the next few days.

Living Space

Opening the door to the apartment was a thing of joy, as we found ourselves in the main living area, a large, luxurious space flooded with sunlight and filled with a flurry of fine things. Well chosen knick knacks, comfy looking chairs and throughout it all, a pleasantly calming ambience.

At one end of the room, a well equipped kitchen gave you the chance to cook up a culinary storm. If that’s your thing. If not, there were plenty of tempting eateries within easy walking distance.

Must admit, as a man who visits many places for his work, often for quite short amounts of time, I have learnt to look for details. In this case, my eyes fell on the radiators. They were gorgeous. Chic, modern, finely cast columns, with tasty chromed taps at each end. Placed perfectly in every room.

Told me all I needed to know about the place. The owners are obviously blessed with taste, deep pockets and an eye for the small things that mean so much. They have really done a fab job of creating a warm, welcoming oasis of peace and calm.

Bedrooms

The two double bedrooms were spacious but cosy, whilst the beds were warm, snuggly pockets of paradise. Plumped up and creamy soft. In one room, there was a bonus single bunk bed right above the double. Making it perfect for small children, or close friends.

The Views

Must admit, we spent a surprising amount of time just sitting around in the living room, chatting away, drinking tea, soaking up the sunshine and lapping up the sea views. There’s a short spit of land between the window and the waves, and watching the day unfold along the waterline was a mighty fine way to pass several happy hours.

To be honest, if it wasn’t for the fact I wanted to get out and explore, would have been very easy to spend the whole time in the apartment. It really was a treat for all the senses.

Teignmouth

However, humans cannot live by views and happiness alone, they also need food. So we set out to stroll around the local area, see what we could find.

First thing we discovered was an excellent path along the sea front, a promenade which took us beside beautifully maintained flowerbeds, past the pier and alongside the train tracks. Was all most pleasing.

After that we headed into the old town, which is an intriguing hotchpotch of quaint back lanes, High Street stores and large, slightly faded, but totally joyous old buildings filled with cafes, bars and in one case, a hardware store. In short, felt like we had stepped back in time and were being enfolded in a warm and fuzzy embrace, riviera style.

Though, to be fair, that feeling could have have been enhanced by the endless beautiful boiling sunshine which filled most of the daylight hours. Either way, we all loved the place. It’s got plenty of keep you coming back for more.

Eateries

It also has more than it’s fair share of fine eateries. We popped into the Riviera Tea Rooms for late breakfasts, had a superb supper at the Nik Nak Noodle shack and enjoyed an excellent pie with a pint at Ye Old Jolly Sailor. A classic British boozer with a lovely landlady behind the bar.

Shaldon Ferry

Next morning, a two minute walk took us to the Shaldon Ferry, the oldest passenger foot ferry around, by all accounts.

A couple of quid got us a short ride across the estuary to Shaldon. A cute, compact and sleepy little village with cafes, bijou boutiques and thatched cottages on every corner.

Looked as if someone had decided to turn the charm setting up to eleven on this one. All of which made it a very good place to be.

After a circuit of the village, I set out to climb the headland, using the coastal path. Going up through a picturesque woodland, I turned a corner and found myself staring into the puzzled eyes of a real live, tiny monkey. Honestly.

A red ruffed lemur, as it happens. Turns out, Shaldon Wildlife Trust is home to a whole heap of lemurs, tamarins and tiny monkeys. So I went in, got a ticket and had a most enjoyable stroll around. Really was an unexpected bonus.

Just when I thought the day couldn’t get any better, I found the tiny tunnel that leads to Ness Cove, a delightfully secluded beach, just perfect for a swim. Which is exactly what I had when I got there. Followed by a unicorn ice cream with flake, in a waffle cone. Snack paradise!

Brixham

Would have been very easy to have stayed around the apartment all day, everyday, what with those sensational sea views. However, thought it would be rude not to explore the surrounding area at least once. So one afternoon we drove down the coast to Brixham.

Another sweet seaside town, about the same size as Teignmouth, with oodles of charm all of it’s own.

After walking along the rather lovely waterfront, checking out the little boats in the harbour and engaging in a mild bout of souvenir shopping, it was time to eat. Which is when we came across a fine looking place overlooking the harbour. It was called, Olive Mediterranean Kitchen & Wine Bar. Never one to pass an opportunity for food and drink, we went in.

Didn’t get a chance to try any of the wines, as I was driving, but the food was impossible to resist. There were lots of tapas type small plates to choose from, but we both ended up going for the chicken gyros.

A sort of Greek take on a pizza. With chicken, Greek salad and tzatziki piled on top. Thankfully, it was just what the tummy doctor ordered. Kept us smiling all the way back to the apartment.

Conclusion

If you ever find yourself bored of the world, with it’s wearisome ways, suffering from a surfeit of ennui, I can heartily recommend taking a trip down to Teignmouth. (Pronounced, “tin-muth.”) A place where the pace is mellow, where the English Riviera meets realities of life head on, but decides to go for a nice relaxing stroll along the seafront instead. Where adventure takes an afternoon nap whenever possible.

Honestly, it’s fab. If you’re looking for a bucket load of seaside satisfaction, with a side order of Riviera relaxation thrown in for good measure, this is just the place for you. Definitely does exactly what it says on the Teignmouth.