I’ve known Appleby-in-Westmorland for years. It’s one of those places that feels like a well-kept secret—the “jewel of the north west” that sits quietly while the Lake District bustles just down the road.
But on this trip, I wasn’t just passing through; I was looking for a specific kind of base. I wanted the independence of a rental (somewhere to kick off the boots and relax with the dog) but I didn’t want to sacrifice the little luxuries of a hotel stay.
That search in this case leads me to the Tufton Arms Hotel and their renovated Mews Apartments.
Sitting right in the centre of town, looking out over the wide, elegant Boroughgate, the Tufton Arms is a Grade II listed Victorian coaching inn that dominates the market square.
It’s grand, it’s historic, but as I found out, it’s also surprisingly modern where it counts.
The Lowdown
The Accommodation: Best of Both Worlds
We stayed in one of the Mews Apartments, situated around the hotel’s rear courtyard.
This is where the Tufton Arms really plays a clever hand. You get your own front door and a fully equipped kitchen, but you still have the hotel team just a reception-bell away if you need anything.
The apartments are practical but stylish. Our lounge diner had lovely wooden floors—a godsend for us dog owners who worry about muddy paws after a walk along the River Eden.
It felt spacious and smart, recently renovated with a look that fits the “luxury accommodation in the Eden Valley” search perfectly.
There are three options here: two on the ground floor and a large duplex on the first floor.
- Room 21 (Ground Floor) has a bath and shower—perfect if you need a soak after a hike.
- Room 22 (Ground Floor) has a wet room, ideal for accessibility or quick turnarounds.
- The Duplex (First Floor) is huge (over 700 sq ft) with two ensuite bedrooms, making it perfect for families or friends travelling together.
Crucially, the sleep quality was top-tier. We’re talking luxury king beds and heavy curtains that actually block out the morning light, ensuring a deep, undisturbed sleep.
Plus, you get Molton Brown toiletries in the bathroom, which is exactly the kind of hotel-level touch you often miss in a standard Airbnb.
Inside the Hotel: Victorian Eccentricity
While the apartments are modern, stepping into the main hotel is like walking into a different era—in the best way possible. The decor is unique and heavily influenced by the Victorian history of the building.
The interiors, designed by Teresa Milsom, are bold. We’re talking tall ceilings, heavy patterned wallpapers, and rich Farrow & Ball paint colours that change mood with the light.
It’s not generic “boutique beige”; it’s full of character. You’ll spot antiques, interesting engravings, and quirks that tell you this is a family-run business (the Milsoms have been here since 1989), not a corporate chain.
It feels grand, but not stuffy. It’s the kind of place where you can admire a Victorian oil painting one minute and chat with a local at the bar the next.
The Mews: A Hidden Gem for Foodies
The real surprise for me was The Tufton Mews. Located in the courtyard, this isn’t just a hotel gift shop—it’s a proper lifestyle hub.
It houses a Deli and Wine Shop that is dangerous for the wallet in all the right ways.
I have never seen such a wonderful wine shop. Nigel hand picks and puts together a fine selection from all around the world.
The corkage is purposely made small so that you can more freely choose and buy from the huge selection and enjoy then and there with your delicious meal.
We found shelves stacked with homemade chutneys, pickles, and—my personal favourite—their own smoked products like salmon and venison sausages prepared by Chef David Milsom.
This is the beauty of the self-catering setup here: you don’t have to cook from scratch if you don’t want to. You can just pop across the courtyard, buy a meat terrine, some local cheese, and a bottle of wine from Nigel’s shop, and take it back to your apartment for a lazy, gourmet evening.
They also stock some lovely local things, like Sedbergh Soap Company products and art prints by Cath Waters, which make for genuine souvenirs rather than plastic tat.
Something else caught our eye in the shop were some unique and bespoke handbags and purses made from all manner of materials. It turns out that these were made from offcut materials from the costumes used in The Hunger Games.
Lovingly made by Kirsty Young of Kostüm Atelier. Who work on big stage and film productions the world over.
Dining and Location
Of course, you don’t have to self-cater. We enjoyed a fantastic meal at The Conservatory Restaurant. It’s the hotel’s main dining spot, serving a grill menu that champions local meat and fish from the Eden. It’s a lovely space—light, airy, and buzzing with atmosphere.
Location-wise, you couldn’t be better placed. You are right in the middle of Appleby. The history is palpable, with Appleby Castle looming above and the River Eden flowing below.
For those interested in the “Lady Anne Clifford” connection, you are right on her trail here, with her tomb in St. Lawrence’s Church just a short walk down Boroughgate.
And if you are an angler, the hotel offers fishing breaks having rights on the Eden, which is famous for its salmon and wild brown trout. They even have a drying room for your gear—another nod to the practical luxury they do so well.
Walks and Things to do Nearby
There is no shortage of things to do and see nearby and many are already detailed here on BaldHiker.
Walks
Looking out to the North Pennines from the Appleby area of the hotel you can see 2 great walks that should be done that I highly recommend:
For a spectular climb up with the most amazing geology and views there is High Cup Nick Circular Walk From Dufton.
Or for a shorter climb that is suitable for many standards then why not take a walk up Dufton Pike. Incredible views await.
Castles Galore
Lady Anne Clifford left here mark here beyond just Appleby Castle. There are many other ruins in the area that add to her legacy. In each direction from The Tufton Arms you can easily get to the ruins of Brougham Castle or Brough Castle.
If you want to venture further you can discover Penrith Castle and history of a different kind.
Plus being based in Appleby you can take the short drive and discover the lovely little town of Kirkby Stephen.
The Verdict
The Tufton Arms has managed to pull off a difficult trick. They’ve kept the soul of a historic coaching inn while adapting to what modern travellers actually want.
The self-catering apartments offer the space and freedom we needed, but the unique decor, the Mews deli, and the warm service gave us the indulgent hotel experience we craved.
If you know Appleby, you’ll love seeing it from this comfortable vantage point. If you don’t, this is the perfect place to start.
You may also be interested in:
The Appleby Horse Fair, Cumbria: A Visitor’s & Photographer’s Guide
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