My subject matter has also taken on a whole new direction and I have found myself adding more to my Gaia collection [in Greek mythology, Gaia is the personification of Earth], which really showcases our evolution.
You’ve also launched a new brand. Why?
I realised that different collections were attracting different customers, so in April I launched LXK Fine jewellery, which represents the more girlie, cute part of me. It’s where you’ll find my original gummy bears in different materials such as jadeite, wood, chalcedony and mutton fat. Even the website has a much younger feel, and there’s no mention of me as the designer as I wanted to stay behind the scenes.
My other brand LaurenxKhoo is where you’ll find most of my fine jewellery. Jewellery to me should be elegant and traditional but also fun. I’ve really homed in on technical details and movement, while experimenting with textures and patterns to breathe life into my pieces. My jewellery is meant to be worn and not locked up in a safe somewhere.
What are some of your favourite designs?
I’m obsessed with florals, so I’ve created a series of floral earrings, but every pair is mismatched, with each earring featuring unexpected details. I also love the playful fruit series which includes artichoke studs where the leaves look as though they are falling off. I’ve created these very cool spiky studs covered in champagne diamonds inspired by the gac, a French fruit. My customers want something special, with personality.
What sets your designs apart from those of other jewellers?
I’m really proud of our craftsmanship. I have grown with my craftsmen who are based in Hong Kong and that have been working with me since the beginning. We really push each other to be more creative – they are also perfectionists, which is why we get along so well.
Take for example my pomegranate ring. It took 10 years to perfect the opening and closing mechanism. It opens up in three ways and the original plan was to put cabochon rubies inside, to represent the pomegranate seeds. Unfortunately, every time the ring closed it would damage the rubies. We went back and forth before we came up with a better alternative.
Is customisation still important to customers?
All my jewellery, even LXK Fine Jewellery, can be customised. Everything is made to order and I love working with clients on bespoke designs. That way they feel more connected with the piece they are buying or gifting.
The relationships we form with the customer are important. I have always wanted to go mass or bigger, but whenever I get too close I pull back because I don’t want to lose my brand identity. The reason I got into jewellery in the first place was to have that relationship with my clients. It’s common to see many talented independent designers lose their connection to the customer when they go into retail. Then it becomes a numbers game. I never want to sacrifice the art for the business.
What can we expect from you next?
Collections happen as and when inspiration strikes – the way I work is very old school.
My pieces are getting bigger, so I’m looking into using titanium instead of gold. I love going big and bold, but intricate details are equally important.
Joel Arthur Rosenthal [the founder of brand JAR] is a huge source of inspiration to me. I love the fact that he makes these incredible one-off jewels that are basically wearable art – either you love them or you don’t. I hope I can make a similar contribution to the industry.
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